Cucina Povera III: a weekend of hands on cooking
Thursday, 21st November to Sunday, 24th November 2024
WHAT IS CUCINA POVERA?
In all my years living in rural Italy (over 30 now!) the best food I have eaten has always been what in culinary literature is known as ‘Cucina Povera’ -‘poor’ cooking. The adjective is certainly misleading as it refers to something currently recognised as good and wholesome. It has become very expensive in restaurants all over the world! Not ‘poor’ at all but plain, simple, seasonal, salubrious and unpretentious in its essence. The irony is that Cucina ‘Povera’ has become the fashionable, expensive ‘cucina’ internationally and considered the best for your health as it constitutes the famous Mediterranean diet.
Cucina Povera is really about using things from the land you have around you with care and respect, never wasting anything – so ‘povera ma buona’. Frugal but delicious, healthy and in modern terms sustainable.
‘Cucina Povera’ is the style of food that now we have come to recognise as ‘Italian’ rather than the ‘Cucina Ricca’ once prepared for the noblity. Coming from ostentatious courts – like the Medici’s in Florence – the ‘Ricca’ version was exported to France by Catherine de Medici when she married the French King Henry II. A branch of it was absorbed into what we now recognise as ‘French’ cuisine. She apparently also introduced the fork to France!
When doing some research into the difference between the Povera and Ricca kitchen, it appears that the basic recipes often have the same origin but gradually more and more expensive ingredients get added in parallel with increase in wealth, trade activity, prestige and the desire to indicate status and being ‘Ricca’. As always to put on a fancy show – ‘La Bella Figura’. Same old story. Showing off.
‘Cucina Povera’ was passed down and developed by women who ran household supplies and the pantries, women responsible for the rationing, preserving and preparation of food for survival of the family and friends. There was always pride and esteem in the community for the woman of the house’s secret recipes. It was how you could sustain your kindred so they could flourish, work, provide, get married and increase. A matter of dignity and accomplishment. Who makes the best tortelli or pumpkin pickle? Still much of an argument in many villages but it is intrinsically about good nutrition and the sensible use of your natural resources.
As we often get this type of cooking filtered through non-locals or ‘chefs’ in less modest forms, I thought it would be interesting and quite frankly just a lot of fun to pay tribute to the manifold generations all over the world who have created an extraordinary and ancient tradition. This weekend would be a hand’s-on, pile-into-the-kitchen cooking jamboree. In this day and age, we have many things to learn from common sense, thrift and skill.
To whet your appetite... a quick video.
Charlotte Horton
Charlotte Horton is co-owner and winemaker at the castle.
Avinash Shasishidhara
Avi is an old friend of Potentino. A chef with more than 18 years of experience in Michelin starred kitchens including Hibiscus and 10 years at the River Cafe London.
He is currently working as a head chef at Palihill London.
Sam and Sam Clarke
Sam and Sam Clark are the successful husband-and-wife team behind Moro. Having spent their honeymoon exploring the flavours of Spain and Morocco, they opened Moro in Clerkenwell, London, in 1997. Since then the restaurant has enjoyed unequalled reviews and accolades, and the Clarks have opened Morito, an intimate tapas bar, with branches in Clerkenwell and Hackney.
Yuki Gomi
Yuki Gomi is a Japanese chef, food writer and cookery teacher. Her mission is to educate and share just how simple, nourishing and delicious Japanese food can be. Her first book Sushi at Home was published in 2013 by Penguin, and taught readers a more accessible way of making sushi.
Carlotta di Leo
Carlotta de Leo is a young chef with Sardinian heritage. She has worked in the world of cuisine internationally but has returned to her roots and is immersed in the world of traditional rural food currently working at a Malga – a mountain shepherd’s retreat in the north of Italy.
Simonetta Pisano
Simonetta Pisano is Sardinian, has taught in food and nutrition education and is Carlotta’s mum. She is an excellent cook and has been making Sardinian biscuits for us at the Castle.
Helen Underwood
Helen Underwood is an award-winning artisan baker specialising in sourdough. She has been running very successful baking retreats at the Castle for several years.
Monica Patino is an internationally acclaimed cook from Mexico who has moved near the castle and runs a small hotel and restaurant.
Luisa Gozzi is an accomplished cheesemaker and is currently making cheese at the castle and ageing it in a cavern under the cellars.
Day 1 – Thursday, November 21
Arrive early afternoon at Castello di Potentino
Cooking together for dinner
- Sardinian Cooking with Carlotta di Leo and Simonetta Pisano
Introduction to the history of the Castle and wine tasting with our host and winemaker Charlotte Horton followed by a Sardinian feast.
Day 2 – Friday, November 22
Visit to local farm to milk sheep
- Cheese Making with Luisa Gozzi
- Cheese lunch with cheese tasting
Free time to explore the grounds and follow the Potentino Nature Walk or optional pasta making
Cooking together for dinner
- Yuki Gomi of Yuki’s Kitchen
Day 3 – Saturday, November 23
Cooking together
- Simonetta Pisano - Sardinian biscuits
- Helen Underwood – Biscuits – ricciarelli etc
Cooking lunch together - traditional non gluten flatbreads and lunch
- Avinash Shasishidhara
- Monica Patino
La Casa di Virginia, La Taberna del Leon
Dinner and preparation
- Sam and Sam Clarke of Moro, London
Evening performance
- Local mountain singers Cardellini del Fontanino
Day 4 – Sunday, November 24
Big Breakfast of local ingredients.
Optional extra day
Depart after breakfast
[We reserve the right to make changes to this
timetable if necessary]
If you are in the area and would like to join in for the cooking and meals, you are more than welcome- please contact Charlotte for prices. charlotte.horton@potentino.com
Board and lodging at Castello di Potentino
All cooking sessions
Meals
What's not included
Flights
Transfers to and from Potentino (can be booked as an extra)
Prices
Prices vary by room choice and number of guests sharing the room.
A single person from € 1540.
Two people sharing a room from €1345 per person.
Three people sharing a room from €1280 per person.
Please note
If you would like to pay a deposit
The payment system asks for payment in full. If you would rather pay a non-refundable 25% deposit at the time of booking, please enter the code DEPOSIT25 at checkout. The final payment will be due one month before the start of the course.
If you have any issues booking
Sometimes, it takes a few attempts to clear the cart if you need to make any changes to your room selection etc.
If you have any issues at all, please contact Alexander Greene alexander.greene@potentino.com
